![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:00 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I'm putting on new pads and rotors all around. The back calipers were easy to remove (the rotors, not so much...) but the fronts are torqued to 114ft/lb and there's 2 bolts on each side. I can't get to them with a pipe extension because they're in the wheel wells and WD40 isn't cutting them loose. They're not rusted, just torqued TIGHT. Anyways, I've got an electric impact wrench that isn't breaking them free, either. Anyone have some tips? I've tried hammering on my wrench, and socket, and anything I can think of...
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:04 |
|
Yep.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:09 |
|
:(
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:10 |
|
Seconded.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:16 |
|
Not that it will probably make a difference in this case, but penetrating oil works better than WD-40 for this.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:19 |
|
*rubs chin * Have you tried soaking the bolts with vinegar for a few minutes before taking them off? Calcium deposits (hard white spots, like those on your faucet) are very common around the wheel area. Calcium deposits are basically glue and vinegar will loosen them. Try that first before you can start accusing someone for putting them in too tightly.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:23 |
|
Heat the bolts with a torch. Just don't set fire to the rest of the car. Have water/fire extinguisher handy.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:28 |
|
Put a regular ratchet or breaker bar on it. Then carefully step on the wrench and bounce up and down balancing your weight with your hands on the hood. Not the safest or ideal method but sometimes you gotta get creative.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:29 |
|
Can't fit a breaker bar in there, my access is limited.
I should define that the bolts are on the backside of the rotor so that's where my problem lies. With my wheels at full lock it still doesn't point out of my wheel well.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:29 |
|
This seems to be the consensus, I don't have a torch. One is on its way though.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:31 |
|
Then use a 3/4 ratchet. I've done it this way before and I probably shouldn't be recommending it because it's really not all that safe.
Once you're standing on the ratchet bounce up and down on it. Should get you way over 114ft/lbs.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:51 |
|
Wd40?....no no..wd="water displacement" its not really a lube even. I've found results with:
PB blaster. Use, use again later in day. Wrench later after that. Also:
CRC freeze off. Hit the spray for 20 seconds, it freezes the bolt chemically shrinking it breaking the rust. Both work well.
![]() 09/07/2013 at 23:56 |
|
Good info! I like the idea of that freeze off. I only tried WD in case there was rust but there's really not. The bolt is clean. I've never had one that was too tight that wasn't rusted so I don't know much about these other chemicals.
![]() 09/08/2013 at 00:17 |
|
From an earlier (similar) discussion, you will have better luck with PB Blaster or with Kroil, and a strong dose of patience!
![]() 09/08/2013 at 00:22 |
|
Thanks for the tip. Reading reviews, and it looks promising. I'm going to try the torch and if that doesn't work I'll pick up a can of PB Blaster and Freeze Off just for some variety
![]() 09/08/2013 at 09:15 |
|
vote for kroil seconded.
when starting a lemons race car build, i will put the car up on jackstands the night before and go around and kroil the piss out every bolt i see. the next day, it's pretty easy to start taking stuff apart.
![]() 09/08/2013 at 09:23 |
|
this isn't a fantastic idea, unless you like replacing ratchets :)
![]() 09/08/2013 at 09:34 |
|
It's really not a good idea, but if he's gotta get them off he's gotta get them off
![]() 09/08/2013 at 09:37 |
|
been there. done that. then, went to sears for a new ratchet :)
i'm glad i'm old and have a 20 year collection of tools, i don't have to do stuff like this any more :)
![]() 09/08/2013 at 09:54 |
|
Yeah, just go to harbor freight and buy a cheap short one of these: